A ninth-century palace on the slope of Mount Naranco, later converted into a church. The finest example of Asturian pre-Romanesque and a World Heritage site, half an hour from the house without taking the car.
It does not look like a church because it was not built as one: it was a royal pavilion with a lookout over the city, two superimposed floors, and a vaulted upper floor that was a novelty at the time. The stone arches, the twisted columns, the medallions on the arches — all of it anticipates the Romanesque two centuries early.
Next to the esplanade there is a viewpoint over all of Oviedo: on clear days you can see as far as the peaks of the Picos. The visit goes inside with a guide, and outside there is plenty of time to walk around and take photographs.
A little history
Ramiro I had it built around the year 842 as part of a palace complex outside the capital; the chronicles also attribute the nearby San Miguel de Lillo to him. When the complex fell into disuse, Santa María was consecrated as a church — a 1150 chronicle already records it as a church — and that is why it has survived intact to the present day. World Heritage Site since 1985.
- From the house
- 10 min by car
- Duration
- 3 hr
- Admission
- €5
- Best season
- May–Oct
Getting there
Without a car
Bus into Oviedo, one change, then a stretch uphill on foot. The climb is real.
By car
Parking next to the monument, limited in summer.
Before you go
- The interior can only be seen on a guided visit, in short slots: check the day's timetable first.
- The ticket covers San Miguel de Lillo too. On Monday mornings entry is free, but without a guide.
- San Miguel de Lillo is right next door — both fit into the same climb.
- The meadow turns to mud in the rain; wear closed shoes.
Prices and opening hours link to the official source; they are never copied onto this site.
